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		<title><![CDATA[M2 Antenna Systems, Inc: Latest News]]></title>
		<link>https://www.m2inc.com</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The latest news from M2 Antenna Systems, Inc.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 28 Apr 2026 20:59:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<isc:store_title><![CDATA[M2 Antenna Systems, Inc]]></isc:store_title>
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			<title><![CDATA[Updating the 6M7JHV for FT8]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/updating-the-6m7jhv-for-ft8/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jul 2021 14:48:13 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/updating-the-6m7jhv-for-ft8/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family: Arial;">With the rapid expansion of FT8 and other digital mode activity on 6M moving higher in the band, some customers are experiencing higher than optimum VSWR in the 50.300 MHz range.&nbsp; We are offering some adjustments to the 6M7JHV to accommodate this frequency shift for existing customers.&nbsp; To move the resonance higher in frequency, cut each element half using the dimensions below.&nbsp; The reflector remains unchanged since it increases the F/B ratio over the original design.&nbsp; No changes to the spacing are required.<br></span></p><p>This document applies to the 6M7JHV only, not the 6M7JHV-HD or 6M7.</p><hr><p><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;">Two different shorting bar settings have been documented.&nbsp; One has a deeper null around 50.330 MHz but sacrifices the VSWR below 50.100 MHz.&nbsp; The second setting is a bit more flat with a 1.4:1 VSWR at 50.100 MHz&nbsp; You can adjust the shorting bar position outside of the published settings to tweak the VSWR curve to fit your operating preference and to compensate for site specific interactions</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;">Shorting bar position.&nbsp; Measured outside of DE block to inside of shorting bar.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;">11.375"&nbsp; - Optimized for FT8, 1.5:1 @ 50.100 MHz.<br></span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;">10.4375" - Broadband.&nbsp; 1.6:1 @ 50.000 MHz, 1.7:1 @ 50.500 MHz.<br></span></p><table><tbody><tr><td></td><td>ORIGINAL</td><td>NEW</td></tr><tr><td>R</td><td>57.625"</td><td>NO CHANGE<br></td></tr><tr><td>DE</td><td>57.25"</td><td>56.25"</td></tr><tr><td>D1</td><td>54.125"</td><td>53.875"</td></tr><tr><td>D2</td><td>53.188"</td><td>52.875"</td></tr><tr><td>D3<br></td><td>52.562"</td><td>52.313"</td></tr><tr><td>D4</td><td>51.25"</td><td>51.0"</td></tr><tr><td>D5</td><td>50.688"</td><td>50.5"<br></td></tr></tbody></table>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family: Arial;">With the rapid expansion of FT8 and other digital mode activity on 6M moving higher in the band, some customers are experiencing higher than optimum VSWR in the 50.300 MHz range.&nbsp; We are offering some adjustments to the 6M7JHV to accommodate this frequency shift for existing customers.&nbsp; To move the resonance higher in frequency, cut each element half using the dimensions below.&nbsp; The reflector remains unchanged since it increases the F/B ratio over the original design.&nbsp; No changes to the spacing are required.<br></span></p><p>This document applies to the 6M7JHV only, not the 6M7JHV-HD or 6M7.</p><hr><p><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;">Two different shorting bar settings have been documented.&nbsp; One has a deeper null around 50.330 MHz but sacrifices the VSWR below 50.100 MHz.&nbsp; The second setting is a bit more flat with a 1.4:1 VSWR at 50.100 MHz&nbsp; You can adjust the shorting bar position outside of the published settings to tweak the VSWR curve to fit your operating preference and to compensate for site specific interactions</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;">Shorting bar position.&nbsp; Measured outside of DE block to inside of shorting bar.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;">11.375"&nbsp; - Optimized for FT8, 1.5:1 @ 50.100 MHz.<br></span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;">10.4375" - Broadband.&nbsp; 1.6:1 @ 50.000 MHz, 1.7:1 @ 50.500 MHz.<br></span></p><table><tbody><tr><td></td><td>ORIGINAL</td><td>NEW</td></tr><tr><td>R</td><td>57.625"</td><td>NO CHANGE<br></td></tr><tr><td>DE</td><td>57.25"</td><td>56.25"</td></tr><tr><td>D1</td><td>54.125"</td><td>53.875"</td></tr><tr><td>D2</td><td>53.188"</td><td>52.875"</td></tr><tr><td>D3<br></td><td>52.562"</td><td>52.313"</td></tr><tr><td>D4</td><td>51.25"</td><td>51.0"</td></tr><tr><td>D5</td><td>50.688"</td><td>50.5"<br></td></tr></tbody></table>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Testing M2 Eggbeater Baluns]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/testing-m2-eggbeater-baluns/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 17 Jun 2021 09:09:29 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/testing-m2-eggbeater-baluns/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>These quick tests can be performed with a multi-meter only if you are experiencing issues.</p><p>Disconnect
one end of each loop.</p><p>Zero
your multi-meter or note the error when the leads or shorted.</p><p>Measure
from the center pin of the connector to the studs.You should have no more than 0.1 ohms to two
studs on one side.</p><p>Measure
from the shield of the connector to the studs.You should have no more than 0.1 ohms to two the other two studs.</p><p>Measure
across the center pin to shield.This
should be open.</p><p>Reconnect
the loops.You should now have a short
across the connector.</p><p>If you do not see these readings, there is a problem in the balun body.&nbsp; If all of these tests pass, but you are still experiencing a high VSWR directly at the feed, you probably have water damage to one of the balun or phasing cables.</p><p>You can contact us directly at 559-432-8873 for additional support.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>These quick tests can be performed with a multi-meter only if you are experiencing issues.</p><p>Disconnect
one end of each loop.</p><p>Zero
your multi-meter or note the error when the leads or shorted.</p><p>Measure
from the center pin of the connector to the studs.You should have no more than 0.1 ohms to two
studs on one side.</p><p>Measure
from the shield of the connector to the studs.You should have no more than 0.1 ohms to two the other two studs.</p><p>Measure
across the center pin to shield.This
should be open.</p><p>Reconnect
the loops.You should now have a short
across the connector.</p><p>If you do not see these readings, there is a problem in the balun body.&nbsp; If all of these tests pass, but you are still experiencing a high VSWR directly at the feed, you probably have water damage to one of the balun or phasing cables.</p><p>You can contact us directly at 559-432-8873 for additional support.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[M2 Antenna Systems Inc, Announces Release of L & C Band Circular Dish Feed (FGFD-2-LC-CC-1)]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/https://www.m2inc.com/l-band-c-band-dual-band-dish-feed-1-00-1-90-ghz-3-4-4-8-ghz/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 13 Jan 2021 16:56:14 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/https://www.m2inc.com/l-band-c-band-dual-band-dish-feed-1-00-1-90-ghz-3-4-4-8-ghz/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/lc-feed-with-black-border.png" style="width: 231px; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" alt="" title=""><strong style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; color: rgb(52, 49, 63);">M2 Antenna Systems, Inc</strong> with headquarters and manufacturing facilities located in Fresno California, Announces the Release of our L & C Band Circular Dish Feed Model&nbsp;<a href="https://www.m2inc.com/l-band-c-band-dual-band-dish-feed-1-00-1-90-ghz-3-4-4-8-ghz/">FGFD-2-LC-CC-1</a>.&nbsp;</p><p>The <strong>M2 Antenna Systems, Inc. FGFD-2-LC-CC-1</strong>, Dual-Band feed is designed for either Prime-Focus or Compact  Cassegrain configured reflectors. The Dual-Circular L-Band section can support power levels in excess of 100 Watts for transmit applications. Band coverage in L-Band is from 1.0-1.9 GHz (Customer Specific), using precision “N” connectors.  The Dual-Circular C-Band section can support power levels in excess of 2 kW for transmit applications and covers the  3.4—4.8 GHz (Customer Specific) frequency range. The interface for C-Band is via the industry standard WR-229 waveguide flanges. Using proprietary Frequency-Selective Surface (FFS) designs, <strong>M2 Antenna</strong> <strong>Systems, Inc</strong>, can fit multiple feeds on beam, increasing the capabilities of new or legacy reflectors. If your project is pressed for time, The M2 Engineering staff is ready to assist in sourcing, selection and design of the RF front end electronics, LNA’s, LNB’s, BUC’s, Amplifiers, RF Cabling and referencing. <strong>Give us a call with your requirements today...we can help.&nbsp;</strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/lc-feed-with-black-border.png" style="width: 231px; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;" alt="" title=""><strong style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; color: rgb(52, 49, 63);">M2 Antenna Systems, Inc</strong> with headquarters and manufacturing facilities located in Fresno California, Announces the Release of our L & C Band Circular Dish Feed Model&nbsp;<a href="https://www.m2inc.com/l-band-c-band-dual-band-dish-feed-1-00-1-90-ghz-3-4-4-8-ghz/">FGFD-2-LC-CC-1</a>.&nbsp;</p><p>The <strong>M2 Antenna Systems, Inc. FGFD-2-LC-CC-1</strong>, Dual-Band feed is designed for either Prime-Focus or Compact  Cassegrain configured reflectors. The Dual-Circular L-Band section can support power levels in excess of 100 Watts for transmit applications. Band coverage in L-Band is from 1.0-1.9 GHz (Customer Specific), using precision “N” connectors.  The Dual-Circular C-Band section can support power levels in excess of 2 kW for transmit applications and covers the  3.4—4.8 GHz (Customer Specific) frequency range. The interface for C-Band is via the industry standard WR-229 waveguide flanges. Using proprietary Frequency-Selective Surface (FFS) designs, <strong>M2 Antenna</strong> <strong>Systems, Inc</strong>, can fit multiple feeds on beam, increasing the capabilities of new or legacy reflectors. If your project is pressed for time, The M2 Engineering staff is ready to assist in sourcing, selection and design of the RF front end electronics, LNA’s, LNB’s, BUC’s, Amplifiers, RF Cabling and referencing. <strong>Give us a call with your requirements today...we can help.&nbsp;</strong></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[ARRL Product Review of the M2 6-Meter HO Loop Antennas]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/arrl-product-review-of-the-m2-6meter-ho-loop-antennas/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Feb 2018 16:56:55 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/arrl-product-review-of-the-m2-6meter-ho-loop-antennas/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p><strong>Reviewed by Bob Allison, WB1GCM</strong></p><p><strong>Assistant Laboratory Manager</strong></p><p><a href="mailto:wb1gcm@arrl.org">wb1gcm@arrl.org</a><strong><br></strong></p><p><img src="https://www.m2inc.com/product_images/uploaded_images/figure-1.jpg" alt="6 Meter HO Loop Stack" title="6 Meter HO Loop Stack" style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; font-size: 15px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; width: 114px; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;">
</p><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400;"><a href="http://www.m2inc.com/FG6MHOLOOP" target="_blank"></a></p><p>The time had come to replace my&nbsp;three-element Yagi antenna for 6&nbsp;meters. It was a homebrew affair, built&nbsp;during the remarkable solar peak of&nbsp;the late 1950s. The Alliance U-100&nbsp;rotator that turned it was nearly asold and erratic. My wife, Kathy,&nbsp;KA1RWY, had bought the Yagi back&nbsp;in the 1980s for $20. The used rotator&nbsp;had been another $20, and the feed&nbsp;line was another $20. This $60&nbsp;antenna system was only supposed&nbsp;to be a temporary arrangement, but&nbsp;as often happens, it ended up lasting&nbsp;for 28 years.</p><p>A new antenna was in order if we&nbsp;wanted to continue to enjoy 6 meters,&nbsp;which has many different propagation&nbsp;opportunities. After researching some&nbsp;new, good-quality directional antennas&nbsp;and rotators, I considered installing&nbsp;a loop antenna. The loop,&nbsp;mounted horizontally, does not&nbsp;require a rotator and provides an&nbsp;omnidirectional pattern. A loop is also&nbsp;lightweight and has a smaller wind&nbsp;profile than a Yagi and rotator, and is&nbsp;therefore easier to support.&nbsp;</p><p>According to some antenna experts,&nbsp;using two loops, stacked, might give&nbsp;e close to the same gain as what&nbsp;my old Yagi offered — about 6 dBd&nbsp;(6 dB better than a dipole) — but on&nbsp;all points of the compass. Working&nbsp;stations&nbsp;</p><p>without turning a beam&nbsp;during the VHF contests and roundtable&nbsp;nets that I enjoy sounded like it&nbsp;would work out pretty good, so I figured&nbsp;it was worth a try, and we&nbsp;ordered two 6-meter HO Loops and a&nbsp;stacking harness from M2 Antenna&nbsp;Systems.</p><p>The HO Loop is sturdy enough to go&nbsp;mobile, too. M2 offers a large magnetic&nbsp;mount for the enthusiast who&nbsp;never wants to miss a band opening.&nbsp;I didn’t try the mag mount, as I was&nbsp;mainly interested in a new antenna&nbsp;for my home station.</p><p><strong><em>Arrival in the Lab</em></strong></p><p>When the loops and power divider&nbsp;arrived, Pete Turbide, W1PT, found&nbsp;everything present (see Figure 3).&nbsp;Each loop is made out of two lengths&nbsp;of 3⁄8-inch OD aluminum tubing&nbsp;and is&nbsp;approximately 30 by 29.5 inches,&nbsp;weighs only 2 pounds, and has a surface&nbsp;area of 0.1 square feet.</p><p>On the feed point side, the loop&nbsp;halves come together at a feed block&nbsp;with an SO-239 connector for the&nbsp;feed line. The feed block is part of an&nbsp;impedance-matching assembly with&nbsp;a shorting bar for tuning. (See the&nbsp;accompanying sidebar, “M2 6-</p><p>Meter&nbsp;HO Loop: A Description.”) In the center&nbsp;of the opposite side of the loop,&nbsp;the two halves are fastened to a&nbsp;UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight&nbsp;polyethylene) tube, which forms a&nbsp;capacitor. A 3⁄8-inch aluminum tube&nbsp;attaches to the UHMW tube and angles down to a mast clamp to support&nbsp;the loop. Two compression-type&nbsp;clamps are used to attach the loop to&nbsp;a mast or tower leg, and&nbsp;stainless steel&nbsp;hardware keeps corrosion at&nbsp;bay.</p><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><img src="https://www.m2inc.com/product_images/uploaded_images/figure2.png" alt="" title="" style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; font-size: 15px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; width: 269px; float: right;"><p>The power divider assembly is made&nbsp;of two lengths of unspecified RG-8&nbsp;size coax,&nbsp;43" and 143" inches long,&nbsp;with PL-259 connectors, plus a&nbsp;T-connector where the feed line to&nbsp;the station attaches.&nbsp;</p><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400;"></p><p>Assembly&nbsp;Using the well-illustrated, step-by-step&nbsp;instructions (available for download&nbsp;from&nbsp;the M2 website), Pete had&nbsp;no difficulty assembling the loops and&nbsp;getting each one to match a 50 Ω&nbsp;transmitter output and transmission&nbsp;line. Most of my operating is from&nbsp;50.090 to 50.400 MHz, so Pete&nbsp;adjusted the position of the feed&nbsp;block for a minimum SWR (1.1:1) at&nbsp;50.2 MHz. If two loops are used, the&nbsp;feed assembly block must be&nbsp;reversed on the second loop to make&nbsp;that loop 180° out of phase with the&nbsp;other one. With the antennas built&nbsp;and tested, it was time to put them up&nbsp;at my house with help from Pete and Mike Gruber, W1MG. The ARRL&nbsp;September VHF Contest was coming&nbsp;up — a perfect opportunity to see&nbsp;how well the new system would work.</p><p>&nbsp;<img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/figure-3.jpg" style="background-color: initial; color: rgb(93, 91, 102); font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; width: 214px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/figure-4.jpg" style="background-color: initial; color: rgb(93, 91, 102); font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; width: 220px;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px;"><strong>Figure 3</strong> — The parts for one M2 6-meter HO Loop prior to assembly.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 10px;"><strong>Figure 4</strong> — Mike Gruber, W1MG, and Pete Turbide, W1PT,</span></p><p style="margin-left: 340px;"><span style="font-size: 10px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; put the finishing touches on the M2 6-meter HO Loop&nbsp;</span>antennas.</p></div><p>I had to purchase a new 30-foot&nbsp;mast, with the intention of using the&nbsp;recommended loop spacing of 12&nbsp;feet (top antenna at 30 feet, bottom&nbsp;one at 18 feet). All of my existing&nbsp;masts were “TV grade” 1-inch-diameter&nbsp;masts, but HO Loop mast clamps&nbsp;require a 11⁄4- to 2-inch diameter mast&nbsp;or tower leg. While good-quality&nbsp;10-foot, 11⁄4-inch-diameter mast sections&nbsp;are reasonably priced, shipping&nbsp;charges to get three of them to my&nbsp;house would add $100 to the cost. In&nbsp;an attempt to be frugal, I purchased&nbsp;three 10-foot sections of 11⁄4-inch, galvanized&nbsp;metal electrical conduit and&nbsp;two couplers for $45 at a local home&nbsp;improvement store. Unfortunately, the&nbsp;mast bent a bit at each coupling&nbsp;point, and we were very lucky a coupler&nbsp;didn’t break when raising the&nbsp;antenna and mast. Guying the mast&nbsp;stabilized it, but we decided it was a&nbsp;bad idea.&nbsp;For a proper installation, I ordered&nbsp;three 10-foot sections of Rohn&nbsp;11⁄4-inch mast from DX Engineering.&nbsp;Each section has a swaged end to fit&nbsp;into the next section for strength and&nbsp;is made of 16-gauge&nbsp; galvanized&nbsp;steel. This created a solid, 30-foot&nbsp;mast, suitable for supporting two&nbsp;loops, a power divider, and coax&nbsp;cables at a cost of $168, shipping&nbsp;included. Figure 4 shows Mike and&nbsp;Pete finishing the assembly with the&nbsp;new mast.</p><p><img src="https://www.m2inc.com/product_images/uploaded_images/arrlqst6mho.png" alt="" title="" style="float: left; width: 177px;">
</p><p><strong><em>On the Air</em></strong></p><p>The installed HO Loops measured&nbsp;close to 1:1 SWR from 50 to 50.2 MHz&nbsp;(CW, beacons, and SSB) and 1.4:1&nbsp;on 50.4 MHz (AM). That first evening,&nbsp;6 meters was open to the south&nbsp;eastern US, with good signals for&nbsp;about 15 minutes. The</p><p>n the band&nbsp;closed abruptly (as often happens&nbsp;during sporadic-E openings). Over&nbsp;the next 2 weeks, I made several&nbsp;SSB contacts with stations around&nbsp;the northeast.&nbsp;</p><p>On 50.4 MHz AM, I met up with an&nbsp;old friend — Mike, WA1MTZ — some&nbsp;34 miles to the northwest, and he&nbsp;had time to carefully listen to my&nbsp;signal, generated by my 1959-era&nbsp;Gonset G-50 running at 20 W. I left&nbsp;the support mast loose enough so I&nbsp;could rotate it, and during our contact,&nbsp;I tried various orientations. We&nbsp;noticed that signal strength varied&nbsp;by 1 to 2 S-units as I rotated the&nbsp;antenna. Signals were strongest with&nbsp;the loops oriented so that the feed&nbsp;point and the insulator of the antenna&nbsp;were in line toward his direction.&nbsp;There could be a couple of reasons&nbsp;why this is so. As noted in the sidebar,&nbsp;“M2 6-Meter HO Loop: A&nbsp;Description,” the exact front-to-side&nbsp;ratio depends on the height above&nbsp;ground, and my lower loop is only 18&nbsp;feet above ground. It’s also possible&nbsp;that proximity to the roof of our house&nbsp;and the metal chimney affects the&nbsp;radiation pattern.&nbsp;</p><p>I always enjoy the ARRL VHF contests.&nbsp;Besides giving me an opportunity&nbsp;to speak to friends, the contests&nbsp;are excellent occasions to test equipment&nbsp;and antenna systems and try to&nbsp;beat my own last contest score. This&nbsp;time around, I ran 150 W into the HO&nbsp;Loops, which put me in the low power&nbsp;category for the event. Note&nbsp;that a pair of HO Loops is rated to&nbsp;handle 1.5 kW PEP (800 W for a single&nbsp;loop).&nbsp;</p><p>Unfortunately, there was no ionospheric&nbsp;or tropospheric enhancement&nbsp;during the event. With terrestrial propagation&nbsp;only, I was able to hear quite&nbsp;well and contacted 60 stations in 13&nbsp;grid squares. Based on previous&nbsp;experiences, I’d say the results with&nbsp;the loops were comparable to my old&nbsp;three-element Yagi in terms of distance&nbsp;and signal strength.</p><p><strong><em>Advantages and&nbsp;Disadvantages&nbsp;</em></strong></p><p>A single loop or stacked loop system&nbsp;is a good option for use on 6 meters.&nbsp;The advantage is being able to hear&nbsp;equally well in all directions. The HO&nbsp;Loops antenna system makes a&nbsp;good listening antenna for the serious&nbsp;6-meter operator who doesn’t want to&nbsp;miss a band opening because the&nbsp;beam is pointed in the wrong direction.&nbsp;Overall, the biggest advantage&nbsp;of using the M2 HO Loop system is&nbsp;that no rotator is required. Usually, my&nbsp;rotator gets a workout during a contest,&nbsp;and sometimes the station I’m&nbsp;after is gone by the time the antenna&nbsp;is pointed in the right direction. With&nbsp;the growing popularity of FT8 and&nbsp;other weak-signal digital modes,&nbsp;long-distance communication on&nbsp;6 meters is possible more often than&nbsp;ever before. An omnidirectional&nbsp;antenna, such as the HO Loop,&nbsp;would be ideal for this mode, especially&nbsp;when you have no idea where&nbsp;signals might be coming from.</p><p>A disadvantage of omnidirectional&nbsp;loop systems is man made&nbsp;noise,&nbsp;which cannot be minimized by rotating&nbsp;the antenna away from the noise&nbsp;source. I am fortunate to have a reasonably&nbsp;low noise floor on 6 meters.&nbsp;</p><p>The two HO Loops and power divider&nbsp;reviewed here cost $505, not including&nbsp;the mast. That’s about the price of&nbsp;a good rotator and one of M2’s&nbsp;three element&nbsp;Yagis for 6 meters. The most&nbsp;expensive component of the stacked&nbsp;HO Loop antenna system is the&nbsp;power divider, at $189. If you’re&nbsp;handy, you might be able to build&nbsp;your own power divider.</p><p>Overall, I give M2 good marks on&nbsp;quality. It looks as though the loops&nbsp;will last at least 28 years, too.&nbsp;Manufacturer:&nbsp;</p><p><strong>M2 Antenna Systems</strong>,&nbsp;4402 N. Selland Ave., Fresno, CA&nbsp;93722; <a href="http://www.m2inc.com." style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">www.m2inc.com.</a> Price:<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/FG6MHOLOOP" target="_blank">6-Meter HO Loop</a>, $158 each;&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/FG6M2PRTPDHOQTH" target="_blank">Two-Port Power Divider Kit</a>, $189.</p><p><u><em>**Published with permission of the ARRL**</em></u></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Reviewed by Bob Allison, WB1GCM</strong></p><p><strong>Assistant Laboratory Manager</strong></p><p><a href="mailto:wb1gcm@arrl.org">wb1gcm@arrl.org</a><strong><br></strong></p><p><img src="https://www.m2inc.com/product_images/uploaded_images/figure-1.jpg" alt="6 Meter HO Loop Stack" title="6 Meter HO Loop Stack" style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; font-size: 15px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; width: 114px; float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;">
</p><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400;"><a href="http://www.m2inc.com/FG6MHOLOOP" target="_blank"></a></p><p>The time had come to replace my&nbsp;three-element Yagi antenna for 6&nbsp;meters. It was a homebrew affair, built&nbsp;during the remarkable solar peak of&nbsp;the late 1950s. The Alliance U-100&nbsp;rotator that turned it was nearly asold and erratic. My wife, Kathy,&nbsp;KA1RWY, had bought the Yagi back&nbsp;in the 1980s for $20. The used rotator&nbsp;had been another $20, and the feed&nbsp;line was another $20. This $60&nbsp;antenna system was only supposed&nbsp;to be a temporary arrangement, but&nbsp;as often happens, it ended up lasting&nbsp;for 28 years.</p><p>A new antenna was in order if we&nbsp;wanted to continue to enjoy 6 meters,&nbsp;which has many different propagation&nbsp;opportunities. After researching some&nbsp;new, good-quality directional antennas&nbsp;and rotators, I considered installing&nbsp;a loop antenna. The loop,&nbsp;mounted horizontally, does not&nbsp;require a rotator and provides an&nbsp;omnidirectional pattern. A loop is also&nbsp;lightweight and has a smaller wind&nbsp;profile than a Yagi and rotator, and is&nbsp;therefore easier to support.&nbsp;</p><p>According to some antenna experts,&nbsp;using two loops, stacked, might give&nbsp;e close to the same gain as what&nbsp;my old Yagi offered — about 6 dBd&nbsp;(6 dB better than a dipole) — but on&nbsp;all points of the compass. Working&nbsp;stations&nbsp;</p><p>without turning a beam&nbsp;during the VHF contests and roundtable&nbsp;nets that I enjoy sounded like it&nbsp;would work out pretty good, so I figured&nbsp;it was worth a try, and we&nbsp;ordered two 6-meter HO Loops and a&nbsp;stacking harness from M2 Antenna&nbsp;Systems.</p><p>The HO Loop is sturdy enough to go&nbsp;mobile, too. M2 offers a large magnetic&nbsp;mount for the enthusiast who&nbsp;never wants to miss a band opening.&nbsp;I didn’t try the mag mount, as I was&nbsp;mainly interested in a new antenna&nbsp;for my home station.</p><p><strong><em>Arrival in the Lab</em></strong></p><p>When the loops and power divider&nbsp;arrived, Pete Turbide, W1PT, found&nbsp;everything present (see Figure 3).&nbsp;Each loop is made out of two lengths&nbsp;of 3⁄8-inch OD aluminum tubing&nbsp;and is&nbsp;approximately 30 by 29.5 inches,&nbsp;weighs only 2 pounds, and has a surface&nbsp;area of 0.1 square feet.</p><p>On the feed point side, the loop&nbsp;halves come together at a feed block&nbsp;with an SO-239 connector for the&nbsp;feed line. The feed block is part of an&nbsp;impedance-matching assembly with&nbsp;a shorting bar for tuning. (See the&nbsp;accompanying sidebar, “M2 6-</p><p>Meter&nbsp;HO Loop: A Description.”) In the center&nbsp;of the opposite side of the loop,&nbsp;the two halves are fastened to a&nbsp;UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight&nbsp;polyethylene) tube, which forms a&nbsp;capacitor. A 3⁄8-inch aluminum tube&nbsp;attaches to the UHMW tube and angles down to a mast clamp to support&nbsp;the loop. Two compression-type&nbsp;clamps are used to attach the loop to&nbsp;a mast or tower leg, and&nbsp;stainless steel&nbsp;hardware keeps corrosion at&nbsp;bay.</p><div style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><img src="https://www.m2inc.com/product_images/uploaded_images/figure2.png" alt="" title="" style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; font-size: 15px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; width: 269px; float: right;"><p>The power divider assembly is made&nbsp;of two lengths of unspecified RG-8&nbsp;size coax,&nbsp;43" and 143" inches long,&nbsp;with PL-259 connectors, plus a&nbsp;T-connector where the feed line to&nbsp;the station attaches.&nbsp;</p><p style="font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400;"></p><p>Assembly&nbsp;Using the well-illustrated, step-by-step&nbsp;instructions (available for download&nbsp;from&nbsp;the M2 website), Pete had&nbsp;no difficulty assembling the loops and&nbsp;getting each one to match a 50 Ω&nbsp;transmitter output and transmission&nbsp;line. Most of my operating is from&nbsp;50.090 to 50.400 MHz, so Pete&nbsp;adjusted the position of the feed&nbsp;block for a minimum SWR (1.1:1) at&nbsp;50.2 MHz. If two loops are used, the&nbsp;feed assembly block must be&nbsp;reversed on the second loop to make&nbsp;that loop 180° out of phase with the&nbsp;other one. With the antennas built&nbsp;and tested, it was time to put them up&nbsp;at my house with help from Pete and Mike Gruber, W1MG. The ARRL&nbsp;September VHF Contest was coming&nbsp;up — a perfect opportunity to see&nbsp;how well the new system would work.</p><p>&nbsp;<img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/figure-3.jpg" style="background-color: initial; color: rgb(93, 91, 102); font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; width: 214px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;<img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/figure-4.jpg" style="background-color: initial; color: rgb(93, 91, 102); font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; width: 220px;"></p><p><span style="font-size: 10px;"><strong>Figure 3</strong> — The parts for one M2 6-meter HO Loop prior to assembly.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</span><span style="font-size: 10px;"><strong>Figure 4</strong> — Mike Gruber, W1MG, and Pete Turbide, W1PT,</span></p><p style="margin-left: 340px;"><span style="font-size: 10px;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; put the finishing touches on the M2 6-meter HO Loop&nbsp;</span>antennas.</p></div><p>I had to purchase a new 30-foot&nbsp;mast, with the intention of using the&nbsp;recommended loop spacing of 12&nbsp;feet (top antenna at 30 feet, bottom&nbsp;one at 18 feet). All of my existing&nbsp;masts were “TV grade” 1-inch-diameter&nbsp;masts, but HO Loop mast clamps&nbsp;require a 11⁄4- to 2-inch diameter mast&nbsp;or tower leg. While good-quality&nbsp;10-foot, 11⁄4-inch-diameter mast sections&nbsp;are reasonably priced, shipping&nbsp;charges to get three of them to my&nbsp;house would add $100 to the cost. In&nbsp;an attempt to be frugal, I purchased&nbsp;three 10-foot sections of 11⁄4-inch, galvanized&nbsp;metal electrical conduit and&nbsp;two couplers for $45 at a local home&nbsp;improvement store. Unfortunately, the&nbsp;mast bent a bit at each coupling&nbsp;point, and we were very lucky a coupler&nbsp;didn’t break when raising the&nbsp;antenna and mast. Guying the mast&nbsp;stabilized it, but we decided it was a&nbsp;bad idea.&nbsp;For a proper installation, I ordered&nbsp;three 10-foot sections of Rohn&nbsp;11⁄4-inch mast from DX Engineering.&nbsp;Each section has a swaged end to fit&nbsp;into the next section for strength and&nbsp;is made of 16-gauge&nbsp; galvanized&nbsp;steel. This created a solid, 30-foot&nbsp;mast, suitable for supporting two&nbsp;loops, a power divider, and coax&nbsp;cables at a cost of $168, shipping&nbsp;included. Figure 4 shows Mike and&nbsp;Pete finishing the assembly with the&nbsp;new mast.</p><p><img src="https://www.m2inc.com/product_images/uploaded_images/arrlqst6mho.png" alt="" title="" style="float: left; width: 177px;">
</p><p><strong><em>On the Air</em></strong></p><p>The installed HO Loops measured&nbsp;close to 1:1 SWR from 50 to 50.2 MHz&nbsp;(CW, beacons, and SSB) and 1.4:1&nbsp;on 50.4 MHz (AM). That first evening,&nbsp;6 meters was open to the south&nbsp;eastern US, with good signals for&nbsp;about 15 minutes. The</p><p>n the band&nbsp;closed abruptly (as often happens&nbsp;during sporadic-E openings). Over&nbsp;the next 2 weeks, I made several&nbsp;SSB contacts with stations around&nbsp;the northeast.&nbsp;</p><p>On 50.4 MHz AM, I met up with an&nbsp;old friend — Mike, WA1MTZ — some&nbsp;34 miles to the northwest, and he&nbsp;had time to carefully listen to my&nbsp;signal, generated by my 1959-era&nbsp;Gonset G-50 running at 20 W. I left&nbsp;the support mast loose enough so I&nbsp;could rotate it, and during our contact,&nbsp;I tried various orientations. We&nbsp;noticed that signal strength varied&nbsp;by 1 to 2 S-units as I rotated the&nbsp;antenna. Signals were strongest with&nbsp;the loops oriented so that the feed&nbsp;point and the insulator of the antenna&nbsp;were in line toward his direction.&nbsp;There could be a couple of reasons&nbsp;why this is so. As noted in the sidebar,&nbsp;“M2 6-Meter HO Loop: A&nbsp;Description,” the exact front-to-side&nbsp;ratio depends on the height above&nbsp;ground, and my lower loop is only 18&nbsp;feet above ground. It’s also possible&nbsp;that proximity to the roof of our house&nbsp;and the metal chimney affects the&nbsp;radiation pattern.&nbsp;</p><p>I always enjoy the ARRL VHF contests.&nbsp;Besides giving me an opportunity&nbsp;to speak to friends, the contests&nbsp;are excellent occasions to test equipment&nbsp;and antenna systems and try to&nbsp;beat my own last contest score. This&nbsp;time around, I ran 150 W into the HO&nbsp;Loops, which put me in the low power&nbsp;category for the event. Note&nbsp;that a pair of HO Loops is rated to&nbsp;handle 1.5 kW PEP (800 W for a single&nbsp;loop).&nbsp;</p><p>Unfortunately, there was no ionospheric&nbsp;or tropospheric enhancement&nbsp;during the event. With terrestrial propagation&nbsp;only, I was able to hear quite&nbsp;well and contacted 60 stations in 13&nbsp;grid squares. Based on previous&nbsp;experiences, I’d say the results with&nbsp;the loops were comparable to my old&nbsp;three-element Yagi in terms of distance&nbsp;and signal strength.</p><p><strong><em>Advantages and&nbsp;Disadvantages&nbsp;</em></strong></p><p>A single loop or stacked loop system&nbsp;is a good option for use on 6 meters.&nbsp;The advantage is being able to hear&nbsp;equally well in all directions. The HO&nbsp;Loops antenna system makes a&nbsp;good listening antenna for the serious&nbsp;6-meter operator who doesn’t want to&nbsp;miss a band opening because the&nbsp;beam is pointed in the wrong direction.&nbsp;Overall, the biggest advantage&nbsp;of using the M2 HO Loop system is&nbsp;that no rotator is required. Usually, my&nbsp;rotator gets a workout during a contest,&nbsp;and sometimes the station I’m&nbsp;after is gone by the time the antenna&nbsp;is pointed in the right direction. With&nbsp;the growing popularity of FT8 and&nbsp;other weak-signal digital modes,&nbsp;long-distance communication on&nbsp;6 meters is possible more often than&nbsp;ever before. An omnidirectional&nbsp;antenna, such as the HO Loop,&nbsp;would be ideal for this mode, especially&nbsp;when you have no idea where&nbsp;signals might be coming from.</p><p>A disadvantage of omnidirectional&nbsp;loop systems is man made&nbsp;noise,&nbsp;which cannot be minimized by rotating&nbsp;the antenna away from the noise&nbsp;source. I am fortunate to have a reasonably&nbsp;low noise floor on 6 meters.&nbsp;</p><p>The two HO Loops and power divider&nbsp;reviewed here cost $505, not including&nbsp;the mast. That’s about the price of&nbsp;a good rotator and one of M2’s&nbsp;three element&nbsp;Yagis for 6 meters. The most&nbsp;expensive component of the stacked&nbsp;HO Loop antenna system is the&nbsp;power divider, at $189. If you’re&nbsp;handy, you might be able to build&nbsp;your own power divider.</p><p>Overall, I give M2 good marks on&nbsp;quality. It looks as though the loops&nbsp;will last at least 28 years, too.&nbsp;Manufacturer:&nbsp;</p><p><strong>M2 Antenna Systems</strong>,&nbsp;4402 N. Selland Ave., Fresno, CA&nbsp;93722; <a href="http://www.m2inc.com." style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">www.m2inc.com.</a> Price:<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/FG6MHOLOOP" target="_blank">6-Meter HO Loop</a>, $158 each;&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/FG6M2PRTPDHOQTH" target="_blank">Two-Port Power Divider Kit</a>, $189.</p><p><u><em>**Published with permission of the ARRL**</em></u></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[K6MYC on Antenna Testing]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/K6MYCAntennaTesting/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jun 2017 16:19:02 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/K6MYCAntennaTesting/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p><strong>Some TIPS on measuring&nbsp;</strong><a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank"><strong>VSWR</strong></a><strong>&nbsp;and troubleshooting&nbsp;</strong><a href="http://www.m2inc.com"><strong>M2 Antennas</strong></a><strong>&nbsp;and
other commercially available HF antennas. In most cases these concepts are
handy for VHF and UHF antennas as well.</strong></p><p>1.If you are testing an antenna for the
first time after assembling it from scratch or have refurbished a used antenna,
it never hurts to use your Ohm meter and test for good continuity across each
joint. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/technical-meter.png" style="width: 105px;" alt="Ohm Meter"><br></span></p><p>2.Set your Ohm meter on the lowest
resistance range like 0 to 200 Ohms. Short the leads together and note the
reading.  It may not be 0.00 but it
should be below one Ohm. Note this reading and be sure it is repeatable over 4
or 5 tries at shorting the leads together. Some meters drift slightly during
your measurement time, so check your “shorted leads” reading every so
often.  If your readings are inconsistent
or vary wildly you may have a poor connection at the meter itself or you may be
picking up nearby AM broadcast RF. Correct the lead connection problem before
continuing. To eliminate RF pickup, try some&nbsp;<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead" target="_blank">ferrite beads</a> or&nbsp;<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=define:snap+on+ferrite+slugs&amp;biw=1696&amp;bih=921&amp;source=univ&amp;tbm=shop&amp;tbo=u&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwji7aqc4anUAhUJjlQKHa_mBssQsxgIJQ" target="_blank">snap on ferrite slugs</a> on your leads as close as possible to the meter itself. For a quick test to see
if RF is an issue, short the leads and fold them up in some aluminum foil. If
the wild fluctuations stop, it means you should deal with the RF before you can
continue</p><p>3.Now you can proceed checking the
“continuity” across each joint. If the reading is over 0.10 Ohm more than your
shorted lead reference reading, be suspicious. Make sure your lead tips are
touching clean metal.  It may sound silly,
but most antenna problems can be found with JUST your Ohm meter. Be sure to
take the visible reading instead of listening for the meter beep. Some meters
beep even with several Ohms of resistance. Any resistive joint in an antenna
can spell disaster or very poor or lousy performance.</p><p>4.Next, if all the joints are solid, you
can try a simple RF listening test.  Even
if you have the antenna just a few feet above ground on wooden or plastic saw
horses, it should sound quite lively with increased noise and signals when the
feedline is attached to a receiver or transceiver. You can’t run F/B measurements, but you can listen a
bit and if possible compare it to other antennas you may have.  You can attempt to check the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> with a
bridge, wattmeter or analyzer but don’t expect perfection. If possible, sweep
across the frequency range plus some on either side of where the antenna is
supposed to work. You should see that some peaks and nulls or more pronounced with
better&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> readings “in band” than way outside the band.  Of course, it is important to know you have a
GOOD piece of 50 Ohm coax for this test setup.</p><p>5.If you like what you have seen so far,
it may be time to raise your HF antenna to 10 to 15 feet (4 to 7 ft. for VHF or
UHF) over ground and repeat the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> check. Perhaps the antenna can be side
mounted on your fixed tower or on top of your lowered crank up. At 20 to 25
feet over ground, on 20M and higher, you should start to see the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> curve
take the correct shape. You should see much higher VSWR outside the band than
in.  Again, a receive test is always
helpful and even cranked down at 21 to 25 feet, a F/B check can tell you if the
antenna is looking promising. </p><p>6.If rotation is possible, you can also
watch the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> change a bit as the antenna is pointed at or away from large
nearby objects. If the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">VSWR</a> is very good or acceptable at some in band
frequency, this is a good sign even though the match may not be exactly where
you want it.  In
a three element beam for instance, the reflector influences the lower end of
the band and the director can pull the match to the high end.  It may be helpful to think of the two
parasitic elements in a tug of war with the driven element being the middle
line in the battle. If you could somehow short out the director for a moment
you would probably see the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">VSWR</a> curve slide down a bit. Same thing if the
reflector is momentarily shorted out, the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">VSWR</a> curve should slide up a bit. If
one or the other parasitic elements are not working properly or on the wrong
frequency, this may cause the VSWR to be off a bit in frequency. This is not
always the case, because the driven element could be off one way or the other
and have a similar effect. It helps to know what affects what to analyze where
to look for a potential problem.</p><p>7.The height over ground can also have
some affect on the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> and where if is in the band. Generally, as you increase
the height over ground, the antenna’s match and performance will move slightly
higher in frequency. In most cases the match or&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">VSWR</a> was probably optimized by
the manufacturer at a good working height of at least ½ wavelength of more. So,
if your tests and measurements have been good up to this point, the next step
may be to raise the antenna to it’s final working height and hopefully take
some final measurements. This is much easier if the antenna is mounted on a crank
up tower. If you are not happy and confident of your readings at 20-25 feet,
don’t put the antenna all the way to the top of your fixed tower until you have
made some more tests and measurements. Perhaps just raising it another 10 feet
will give you numbers that look good. If nothing is jiving, it is probably best
to get the antenna back on the ground and go over your measurements and
assembly manual another time. It can be very helpful to have another person
look over your shoulder to double check your efforts.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Some TIPS on measuring&nbsp;</strong><a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank"><strong>VSWR</strong></a><strong>&nbsp;and troubleshooting&nbsp;</strong><a href="http://www.m2inc.com"><strong>M2 Antennas</strong></a><strong>&nbsp;and
other commercially available HF antennas. In most cases these concepts are
handy for VHF and UHF antennas as well.</strong></p><p>1.If you are testing an antenna for the
first time after assembling it from scratch or have refurbished a used antenna,
it never hurts to use your Ohm meter and test for good continuity across each
joint. </p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/technical-meter.png" style="width: 105px;" alt="Ohm Meter"><br></span></p><p>2.Set your Ohm meter on the lowest
resistance range like 0 to 200 Ohms. Short the leads together and note the
reading.  It may not be 0.00 but it
should be below one Ohm. Note this reading and be sure it is repeatable over 4
or 5 tries at shorting the leads together. Some meters drift slightly during
your measurement time, so check your “shorted leads” reading every so
often.  If your readings are inconsistent
or vary wildly you may have a poor connection at the meter itself or you may be
picking up nearby AM broadcast RF. Correct the lead connection problem before
continuing. To eliminate RF pickup, try some&nbsp;<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead" target="_blank">ferrite beads</a> or&nbsp;<a href="https://www.google.com/search?q=define:snap+on+ferrite+slugs&amp;biw=1696&amp;bih=921&amp;source=univ&amp;tbm=shop&amp;tbo=u&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwji7aqc4anUAhUJjlQKHa_mBssQsxgIJQ" target="_blank">snap on ferrite slugs</a> on your leads as close as possible to the meter itself. For a quick test to see
if RF is an issue, short the leads and fold them up in some aluminum foil. If
the wild fluctuations stop, it means you should deal with the RF before you can
continue</p><p>3.Now you can proceed checking the
“continuity” across each joint. If the reading is over 0.10 Ohm more than your
shorted lead reference reading, be suspicious. Make sure your lead tips are
touching clean metal.  It may sound silly,
but most antenna problems can be found with JUST your Ohm meter. Be sure to
take the visible reading instead of listening for the meter beep. Some meters
beep even with several Ohms of resistance. Any resistive joint in an antenna
can spell disaster or very poor or lousy performance.</p><p>4.Next, if all the joints are solid, you
can try a simple RF listening test.  Even
if you have the antenna just a few feet above ground on wooden or plastic saw
horses, it should sound quite lively with increased noise and signals when the
feedline is attached to a receiver or transceiver. You can’t run F/B measurements, but you can listen a
bit and if possible compare it to other antennas you may have.  You can attempt to check the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> with a
bridge, wattmeter or analyzer but don’t expect perfection. If possible, sweep
across the frequency range plus some on either side of where the antenna is
supposed to work. You should see that some peaks and nulls or more pronounced with
better&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> readings “in band” than way outside the band.  Of course, it is important to know you have a
GOOD piece of 50 Ohm coax for this test setup.</p><p>5.If you like what you have seen so far,
it may be time to raise your HF antenna to 10 to 15 feet (4 to 7 ft. for VHF or
UHF) over ground and repeat the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> check. Perhaps the antenna can be side
mounted on your fixed tower or on top of your lowered crank up. At 20 to 25
feet over ground, on 20M and higher, you should start to see the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> curve
take the correct shape. You should see much higher VSWR outside the band than
in.  Again, a receive test is always
helpful and even cranked down at 21 to 25 feet, a F/B check can tell you if the
antenna is looking promising. </p><p>6.If rotation is possible, you can also
watch the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> change a bit as the antenna is pointed at or away from large
nearby objects. If the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">VSWR</a> is very good or acceptable at some in band
frequency, this is a good sign even though the match may not be exactly where
you want it.  In
a three element beam for instance, the reflector influences the lower end of
the band and the director can pull the match to the high end.  It may be helpful to think of the two
parasitic elements in a tug of war with the driven element being the middle
line in the battle. If you could somehow short out the director for a moment
you would probably see the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">VSWR</a> curve slide down a bit. Same thing if the
reflector is momentarily shorted out, the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">VSWR</a> curve should slide up a bit. If
one or the other parasitic elements are not working properly or on the wrong
frequency, this may cause the VSWR to be off a bit in frequency. This is not
always the case, because the driven element could be off one way or the other
and have a similar effect. It helps to know what affects what to analyze where
to look for a potential problem.</p><p>7.The height over ground can also have
some affect on the&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" target="_blank">VSWR</a> and where if is in the band. Generally, as you increase
the height over ground, the antenna’s match and performance will move slightly
higher in frequency. In most cases the match or&nbsp;<a href="https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/glossary/definitions.mvp/term/VSWR/gpk/815" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">VSWR</a> was probably optimized by
the manufacturer at a good working height of at least ½ wavelength of more. So,
if your tests and measurements have been good up to this point, the next step
may be to raise the antenna to it’s final working height and hopefully take
some final measurements. This is much easier if the antenna is mounted on a crank
up tower. If you are not happy and confident of your readings at 20-25 feet,
don’t put the antenna all the way to the top of your fixed tower until you have
made some more tests and measurements. Perhaps just raising it another 10 feet
will give you numbers that look good. If nothing is jiving, it is probably best
to get the antenna back on the ground and go over your measurements and
assembly manual another time. It can be very helpful to have another person
look over your shoulder to double check your efforts.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[​Antenna Gain: dBi vs. dBd]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/dbi-vs-dbd/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 01 Jun 2017 13:32:32 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/dbi-vs-dbd/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p><strong>Antenna gain is measured in either dBi or dBd.</strong></p><p>It is important to note that antenna gain is different than amplifier gain. Antennas do not have a power source that allows the antenna to create additional energy to boost the signal. An antenna is similar to a reflective lens in principle - it takes the energy available from the source and focuses it over a wider or narrower area.</p><p>Antenna gain is then a measure of the amount of focus that an antenna can apply to the incoming signal relative to one of two reference dispersion patterns. Digi specifies all antenna gains in dBi.</p><p>dBi is the amount of focus applied by an antenna with respect to an "Isotropic Radiator" (a dispersion pattern that radiates the energy equally in all directions onto an imaginary sphere surrounding a point source). Thus an antenna with 2.1 dBi of gain focuses the energy so that some areas on an imaginary sphere surrounding the antenna will have 2.1 dB more signal strength than the strength of the strongest spot on the sphere around an Isotropic Radiator.</p><p>dBd refers to the antenna gain with respect to a reference dipole antenna. A reference dipole antenna is defined to have 2.15 dBi of gain. So converting between dBi and dBd is as simple as adding or subtracting 2.15 according to these formulas:</p><ul><li>dBi = dBd + 2.15</li><li>dBd = dBi - 2.15</li></ul><p>Specifying antenna gain in dBd means that the antenna in question has the ability to focus the energy x dB more than a dipole.</p><p><strong>Beam Width</strong></p><p>Because higher gain antennas achieve the extra power by focusing in on a smaller area it is important to remember that the greater the gain, the smaller the area covered as measured in degrees of beam width (think of an adjustable beam flashlight). In many cases a high gain antenna is a detriment to the system performance because the system needs to have reception over a large area.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Antenna gain is measured in either dBi or dBd.</strong></p><p>It is important to note that antenna gain is different than amplifier gain. Antennas do not have a power source that allows the antenna to create additional energy to boost the signal. An antenna is similar to a reflective lens in principle - it takes the energy available from the source and focuses it over a wider or narrower area.</p><p>Antenna gain is then a measure of the amount of focus that an antenna can apply to the incoming signal relative to one of two reference dispersion patterns. Digi specifies all antenna gains in dBi.</p><p>dBi is the amount of focus applied by an antenna with respect to an "Isotropic Radiator" (a dispersion pattern that radiates the energy equally in all directions onto an imaginary sphere surrounding a point source). Thus an antenna with 2.1 dBi of gain focuses the energy so that some areas on an imaginary sphere surrounding the antenna will have 2.1 dB more signal strength than the strength of the strongest spot on the sphere around an Isotropic Radiator.</p><p>dBd refers to the antenna gain with respect to a reference dipole antenna. A reference dipole antenna is defined to have 2.15 dBi of gain. So converting between dBi and dBd is as simple as adding or subtracting 2.15 according to these formulas:</p><ul><li>dBi = dBd + 2.15</li><li>dBd = dBi - 2.15</li></ul><p>Specifying antenna gain in dBd means that the antenna in question has the ability to focus the energy x dB more than a dipole.</p><p><strong>Beam Width</strong></p><p>Because higher gain antennas achieve the extra power by focusing in on a smaller area it is important to remember that the greater the gain, the smaller the area covered as measured in degrees of beam width (think of an adjustable beam flashlight). In many cases a high gain antenna is a detriment to the system performance because the system needs to have reception over a large area.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Will the OR2800 fit in my tower?]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/OR2800TowerFit</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 01 Jun 2017 10:40:55 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/OR2800TowerFit</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>We frequently receive inquiries if our&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/FGOR2800PX" target="_blank">OR2800PX, AZIMUTH MOTOR</a>&nbsp;rotor will fit in Brand-X tower.  The manual lists a few towers that have no issues.  Here are a couple more:</p><p>1. A round plate model will fit inside&nbsp;<a href="http://www.rohnnet.com/rohn-25g-tower" target="_blank">Rohn 25G</a>, but the mast clamp bolts need to be cut down or the diagonal braces bowed out slightly to clear the bolts when rotating.   This is for mounting inside a “straight” section.  Installation is challenging, but it will fit and rotate.  (M2 report)</p><p>2.&nbsp;<a href="http://www.hy-gain.com/support.php?productid=HG-52SS" target="_blank">Hygain HG-52SS</a>:  A round plate model fits.  (TNX&nbsp;<a href="http://www.w2yr.com/w2yr.htm" target="_blank">W2YR</a>).  It looks like an oval plate model might fit also. (M2)</p><p>If you know of any towers that have no issues and not listed below, or even ones that will not work, please let us know by either calling us at (559) 432-8873 or send us an email to&nbsp;<a href="mailto:sales@m2inc.com">sales@m2inc.com</a>.</p><p>The following is documented in the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/content/PDF%20MANUALS/OR2800%20SERIES/OR2800PXMAN02-W.pdf" target="_blank">OR2800PX Manual</a>; Standard Ham M etc. 3” x 3” bolt pattern +2 extra holes&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/content/PDF MANUALS/OR2800 SERIES/OR2800 HOLE PATTERN.pdf" target="_blank">(OR2800PX Hole Pattern)</a>. Fits inside towers like&nbsp;<a href="http://www.rohnnet.com/rohn-25g-tower" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">Rohn 25G</a>&nbsp;&amp; up,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.tashtowers.com/crank-up-towers.php" target="_blank">Triex LM-354</a>&nbsp;&amp; up&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ustower.com/products/tx-series-free-standing-crank-up-towers/" target="_blank">U.S.Towers TX438</a>&nbsp;&amp; up.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>We frequently receive inquiries if our&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/FGOR2800PX" target="_blank">OR2800PX, AZIMUTH MOTOR</a>&nbsp;rotor will fit in Brand-X tower.  The manual lists a few towers that have no issues.  Here are a couple more:</p><p>1. A round plate model will fit inside&nbsp;<a href="http://www.rohnnet.com/rohn-25g-tower" target="_blank">Rohn 25G</a>, but the mast clamp bolts need to be cut down or the diagonal braces bowed out slightly to clear the bolts when rotating.   This is for mounting inside a “straight” section.  Installation is challenging, but it will fit and rotate.  (M2 report)</p><p>2.&nbsp;<a href="http://www.hy-gain.com/support.php?productid=HG-52SS" target="_blank">Hygain HG-52SS</a>:  A round plate model fits.  (TNX&nbsp;<a href="http://www.w2yr.com/w2yr.htm" target="_blank">W2YR</a>).  It looks like an oval plate model might fit also. (M2)</p><p>If you know of any towers that have no issues and not listed below, or even ones that will not work, please let us know by either calling us at (559) 432-8873 or send us an email to&nbsp;<a href="mailto:sales@m2inc.com">sales@m2inc.com</a>.</p><p>The following is documented in the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/content/PDF%20MANUALS/OR2800%20SERIES/OR2800PXMAN02-W.pdf" target="_blank">OR2800PX Manual</a>; Standard Ham M etc. 3” x 3” bolt pattern +2 extra holes&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/content/PDF MANUALS/OR2800 SERIES/OR2800 HOLE PATTERN.pdf" target="_blank">(OR2800PX Hole Pattern)</a>. Fits inside towers like&nbsp;<a href="http://www.rohnnet.com/rohn-25g-tower" style="background-color: initial; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif;">Rohn 25G</a>&nbsp;&amp; up,&nbsp;<a href="http://www.tashtowers.com/crank-up-towers.php" target="_blank">Triex LM-354</a>&nbsp;&amp; up&nbsp;<a href="http://www.ustower.com/products/tx-series-free-standing-crank-up-towers/" target="_blank">U.S.Towers TX438</a>&nbsp;&amp; up.</p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[KT Tri-Band Assembly Q & A]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/kt-triband-assembly-question-and-answer</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 17 Mar 2017 13:33:41 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/kt-triband-assembly-question-and-answer</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 18px;">Have you purchased a new M2 or KLM triband upgrade? Below are some common questions and answers to the assembly or refurbishment of these solid performing antennas.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 18px;"><br></span></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><strong><u><span style="font-size: 20px;">COMMON ANSWERS TO COMMON QUESTIONS</span></u></strong></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: When measuring tube or shorting bar position, “where do I measure from, inside&nbsp;to inside or outside to outside?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: Refer to your individual element dimension sheet. It is much easier to determine&nbsp;witch side of the tube or shorting bar to reference. Note: M2 has used to two inner&nbsp;shorting bars as points to hook your tape measure onto for ease of measuring, so generally&nbsp;hook your tape measure on to a inner shorting bar and measure to the inner edge of&nbsp;the outer shorting bar or to the end of a tube.&nbsp;</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: Is the gap between the capacitor caps critical?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: No, the gap can be 1/8”-1/2”. The reason for the gap is to prevent water from&nbsp;sitting in a location where water could over time “wick” into the capacitor tubes. Water in&nbsp;the capacitor tube can change the capacitance witch can change the tuning of the antenna.</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/kthalfelement.png" style="width: 762px;" alt="KT36XA Half Element Reference"></p><p style="text-align: center;"><em><u><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">**IMAGE FOR REFERENCE**</span></u></em></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: If I end up with some unacceptable VSWR on one or more bands can I adjust it&nbsp;out with the “T” match?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: No, In fact this is not a true “T” match. We found in the early stage of the&nbsp;original design that only a small amount of VSWR improvement occurred when we adjust&nbsp;the “T” match. Just set it to the dimension sheet and forget it. Other factors are causing&nbsp;your VSWR problems. Recheck your dimensions.</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: I have a good, but not perfect VSWR, Will it help to replace the balun?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;">ANSWER: Probably not. If your balun is broken inside your match will be poor ( up to&nbsp;4:1) on all bands. Save your money, recheck your dimensions.</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: How can I be sure I have the capacitor caps on the tube all the way?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: The capacitor caps over lap the tubes by 3/8” (.375) so when both caps are&nbsp;fully engaged with the tube the dimension from the inside of each cap should be&nbsp;3/4”(.750) less than the capacitor tube being measured.</p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: I am doing a upgrade to my KLM Tribander. Do I need to replace the capacitor tubes?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: If you are purchasing the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/upgrade-kit-kt34xa-to-kt36xa/"><span style="font-size: 14px;">UPGRADE KIT, KT34XA to KT36XA</span></a><strong>&nbsp;</strong>the capacitor tubes are provided with the kit. &nbsp;However if you are purchasing the&nbsp;<span style="font-size: 14px;"><a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/upgrade-kit-kt34-a-to-kt34m2/">UPGRADE KIT, KT34(A) TO KT34M2</a> they are not included. &nbsp;You will want to check your existing tubes to see if they can be cleaned up. &nbsp;However if they are damaged or not able to be refurbished you will need to&nbsp;<a href="mailto:sales@m2inc.com">contact us</a> us for the cost of replacing them.</span><a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/upgrade-kit-kt34-a-to-kt34m2/"></a></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: If I am having a problem on a specific band of my tribander what part of the antenna element do I look at?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: You will want to follow the path on each half element. Please see the image below for reference.</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/ktfreqpath.png" style="width: 780px;"></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 18px;">Have you purchased a new M2 or KLM triband upgrade? Below are some common questions and answers to the assembly or refurbishment of these solid performing antennas.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: 18px;"><br></span></span></p><p style="text-align: center;"><strong><u><span style="font-size: 20px;">COMMON ANSWERS TO COMMON QUESTIONS</span></u></strong></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: When measuring tube or shorting bar position, “where do I measure from, inside&nbsp;to inside or outside to outside?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: Refer to your individual element dimension sheet. It is much easier to determine&nbsp;witch side of the tube or shorting bar to reference. Note: M2 has used to two inner&nbsp;shorting bars as points to hook your tape measure onto for ease of measuring, so generally&nbsp;hook your tape measure on to a inner shorting bar and measure to the inner edge of&nbsp;the outer shorting bar or to the end of a tube.&nbsp;</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: Is the gap between the capacitor caps critical?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: No, the gap can be 1/8”-1/2”. The reason for the gap is to prevent water from&nbsp;sitting in a location where water could over time “wick” into the capacitor tubes. Water in&nbsp;the capacitor tube can change the capacitance witch can change the tuning of the antenna.</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/kthalfelement.png" style="width: 762px;" alt="KT36XA Half Element Reference"></p><p style="text-align: center;"><em><u><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">**IMAGE FOR REFERENCE**</span></u></em></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: If I end up with some unacceptable VSWR on one or more bands can I adjust it&nbsp;out with the “T” match?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: No, In fact this is not a true “T” match. We found in the early stage of the&nbsp;original design that only a small amount of VSWR improvement occurred when we adjust&nbsp;the “T” match. Just set it to the dimension sheet and forget it. Other factors are causing&nbsp;your VSWR problems. Recheck your dimensions.</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: I have a good, but not perfect VSWR, Will it help to replace the balun?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;">ANSWER: Probably not. If your balun is broken inside your match will be poor ( up to&nbsp;4:1) on all bands. Save your money, recheck your dimensions.</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: How can I be sure I have the capacitor caps on the tube all the way?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: The capacitor caps over lap the tubes by 3/8” (.375) so when both caps are&nbsp;fully engaged with the tube the dimension from the inside of each cap should be&nbsp;3/4”(.750) less than the capacitor tube being measured.</p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: I am doing a upgrade to my KLM Tribander. Do I need to replace the capacitor tubes?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: If you are purchasing the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/upgrade-kit-kt34xa-to-kt36xa/"><span style="font-size: 14px;">UPGRADE KIT, KT34XA to KT36XA</span></a><strong>&nbsp;</strong>the capacitor tubes are provided with the kit. &nbsp;However if you are purchasing the&nbsp;<span style="font-size: 14px;"><a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/upgrade-kit-kt34-a-to-kt34m2/">UPGRADE KIT, KT34(A) TO KT34M2</a> they are not included. &nbsp;You will want to check your existing tubes to see if they can be cleaned up. &nbsp;However if they are damaged or not able to be refurbished you will need to&nbsp;<a href="mailto:sales@m2inc.com">contact us</a> us for the cost of replacing them.</span><a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/upgrade-kit-kt34-a-to-kt34m2/"></a></p><p><strong>QUESTION</strong>: If I am having a problem on a specific band of my tribander what part of the antenna element do I look at?</p><p style="margin-left: 20px;"><strong>ANSWER</strong>: You will want to follow the path on each half element. Please see the image below for reference.</p><p><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/ktfreqpath.png" style="width: 780px;"></p>]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[80 Meter Yagi]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/80-meter-yagi/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 07 Mar 2016 09:27:49 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/80-meter-yagi/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;A half wave dipole on an 80m is
about 130 feet or 40 meters long. Most of us humans think an element that long
is difficult to build an rotate much less keep up in the air reliably even for
a single winter. So what size would be worthy to try? Something 75 to 100 feet
might be manageable. So how do we shrink the length and maintain most of the
performance and efficiency?</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Having built linear loaded 80m Yagi’s since 1980, I know the
concept works. I physically modeled the first dual driven, linear loaded 4
element Yagi at a frequency of 144 MHz. Scaling the element sizes was difficult
but I was able to optimize spacing and linear loading location. Once the model
worked at 144 MHz, I then measured the resonance of each element individually
and scaled the results by 38:1 and I had a full size starting point. It turned
out to need very little tweaking.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The first
80M4ll was built for Arnold Tamchin, (W2HCW). <st1>Arnold wanted 20dB front and back and that is
what he got. He wanted good bandwidth and the dual driven element and I gave
him just that. Elements ended up at about 94 ft long and the boom was 76 <st1>Ft. Big? Yes, did it play? Yes, enough to make <st1>Arnold gush! I put up the
same thing on the West Coast and started working for Europeans reliably in the
dx window at 3.790-3.800 SSB.</st1></st1></st1></p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Now along comes “Computer
Modeling”. Fortran based in the beginning and then in basic. Nec and mininec
followed and Brian Beezley. K6STI produced YO (Yagi Optimizer) and AO (Antenna
Optimizer), mininec based programs. Roy Lewellen (W7EL), followed with eznec
and elnec, nec based programs.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;This
started a modeling frenzy. There was one problem however, nec based programs do
not model linear loading accurately. But many modelers using nec based modeling
built linear loaded antennas and found they did not work?? Substituting coils
for the linear loading did the job however.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;I was the
proud owner of many versions of YO and AO. Linear Loading in mininec based
programs does work so many linear loaded antenna designs followed with good
performance results. Some others built linear loaded antennas as well but for many
reasons they did not work well so linear loading started to lose its
credibility. All sorts of half baked theories filled the airwaves about current
cancellation and whatever caused the loss of front to back and again.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;To most
antenna designers coils seemed like the logical solution. Mechanical design
issues are important with both coil and linear loading designs. Efficiency is a
serious issue when doing a coil design. A Few perceptive designers realized
quickly that coil Q was extremely important, particularly at 40M and 80M! 160M
is another story for another time.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Here is an
interesting side note. When coils are used in a dipole the coil Q is not much
of a factor when related to efficiency. Poorly designed coils still work
reasonably well. But, when the dipole placed, physically and electrically,
close to another similar element, the current in the element goes up
dramatically and losses can completely kill the gain! If the modeling program
either does not calculate final efficiency or the modeling ignores it, the low
Q coil design looks great but it doesn’t work well in the field.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Linear
loading is much less critical to wire and tubing diameter losses but it still
does show up once the antenna becomes a parasitic, directional structure.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;So to put
this into perspective, extensive modeling with AOP (antenna optimizer,
professional) shows that linear loading designs using decent diameter loading
component work very well and are very efficient. Coil loading using wire size
and fabrication techniques that maintain a Q of at least 300 works very well
and are very efficient.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The results
of the multiple years of simultaneous, on the air testing shows no detectable
difference in forward gain or front to back performance using linear loading on
one antenna and coils with a Q of 500 on the other antenna.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Modeling of
each antenna showed virtually identical results meaning gains within .2 dB and
F/B of 24 dB plus/ minus 2 dB. So it comes down to personal choice based on
your local weather and esthetics.  </p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The new
concept in the coil fabrication that Matt Staal here at M2 came up with allow
us to machine the coil from 1/8 wall aluminum tubing leaving a ½”solid tube
section on each end of the coil. This makes for extremely low loss, high
reliability coil to element connections, because the machining is accurate, the
inductance value is the same from one coil to the next.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;It is one
thing to wind a high Q coil on very good, low loss dielectrically only to see
that beautiful coil compromised with small area, dissimilar metal connections
to the element sections.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The
physical covering and joining of the coil to the element is equally important
to longevity and performance. M2 coil ends are CNC turned from 4” diameter
aluminum billet and further CNC milling to remove excessive weight. A special
360 degree clamping connection insures maximum strength and reliability of the
joints. Internally the coil floats on 4 thin strips of machined polyethylene,
internally threaded, cover. This fabrication technique is a bit pricey but
produces an almost indestructible inductor.</p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;A half wave dipole on an 80m is
about 130 feet or 40 meters long. Most of us humans think an element that long
is difficult to build an rotate much less keep up in the air reliably even for
a single winter. So what size would be worthy to try? Something 75 to 100 feet
might be manageable. So how do we shrink the length and maintain most of the
performance and efficiency?</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Having built linear loaded 80m Yagi’s since 1980, I know the
concept works. I physically modeled the first dual driven, linear loaded 4
element Yagi at a frequency of 144 MHz. Scaling the element sizes was difficult
but I was able to optimize spacing and linear loading location. Once the model
worked at 144 MHz, I then measured the resonance of each element individually
and scaled the results by 38:1 and I had a full size starting point. It turned
out to need very little tweaking.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The first
80M4ll was built for Arnold Tamchin, (W2HCW). <st1>Arnold wanted 20dB front and back and that is
what he got. He wanted good bandwidth and the dual driven element and I gave
him just that. Elements ended up at about 94 ft long and the boom was 76 <st1>Ft. Big? Yes, did it play? Yes, enough to make <st1>Arnold gush! I put up the
same thing on the West Coast and started working for Europeans reliably in the
dx window at 3.790-3.800 SSB.</st1></st1></st1></p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Now along comes “Computer
Modeling”. Fortran based in the beginning and then in basic. Nec and mininec
followed and Brian Beezley. K6STI produced YO (Yagi Optimizer) and AO (Antenna
Optimizer), mininec based programs. Roy Lewellen (W7EL), followed with eznec
and elnec, nec based programs.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;This
started a modeling frenzy. There was one problem however, nec based programs do
not model linear loading accurately. But many modelers using nec based modeling
built linear loaded antennas and found they did not work?? Substituting coils
for the linear loading did the job however.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;I was the
proud owner of many versions of YO and AO. Linear Loading in mininec based
programs does work so many linear loaded antenna designs followed with good
performance results. Some others built linear loaded antennas as well but for many
reasons they did not work well so linear loading started to lose its
credibility. All sorts of half baked theories filled the airwaves about current
cancellation and whatever caused the loss of front to back and again.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;To most
antenna designers coils seemed like the logical solution. Mechanical design
issues are important with both coil and linear loading designs. Efficiency is a
serious issue when doing a coil design. A Few perceptive designers realized
quickly that coil Q was extremely important, particularly at 40M and 80M! 160M
is another story for another time.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Here is an
interesting side note. When coils are used in a dipole the coil Q is not much
of a factor when related to efficiency. Poorly designed coils still work
reasonably well. But, when the dipole placed, physically and electrically,
close to another similar element, the current in the element goes up
dramatically and losses can completely kill the gain! If the modeling program
either does not calculate final efficiency or the modeling ignores it, the low
Q coil design looks great but it doesn’t work well in the field.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Linear
loading is much less critical to wire and tubing diameter losses but it still
does show up once the antenna becomes a parasitic, directional structure.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;So to put
this into perspective, extensive modeling with AOP (antenna optimizer,
professional) shows that linear loading designs using decent diameter loading
component work very well and are very efficient. Coil loading using wire size
and fabrication techniques that maintain a Q of at least 300 works very well
and are very efficient.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The results
of the multiple years of simultaneous, on the air testing shows no detectable
difference in forward gain or front to back performance using linear loading on
one antenna and coils with a Q of 500 on the other antenna.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;Modeling of
each antenna showed virtually identical results meaning gains within .2 dB and
F/B of 24 dB plus/ minus 2 dB. So it comes down to personal choice based on
your local weather and esthetics.  </p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The new
concept in the coil fabrication that Matt Staal here at M2 came up with allow
us to machine the coil from 1/8 wall aluminum tubing leaving a ½”solid tube
section on each end of the coil. This makes for extremely low loss, high
reliability coil to element connections, because the machining is accurate, the
inductance value is the same from one coil to the next.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;It is one
thing to wind a high Q coil on very good, low loss dielectrically only to see
that beautiful coil compromised with small area, dissimilar metal connections
to the element sections.</p><p>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;The
physical covering and joining of the coil to the element is equally important
to longevity and performance. M2 coil ends are CNC turned from 4” diameter
aluminum billet and further CNC milling to remove excessive weight. A special
360 degree clamping connection insures maximum strength and reliability of the
joints. Internally the coil floats on 4 thin strips of machined polyethylene,
internally threaded, cover. This fabrication technique is a bit pricey but
produces an almost indestructible inductor.</p>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ARRL QST Product Review - "M2 6M-1K2 High-Power 6 Meter Amplifier"]]></title>
			<link>https://www.m2inc.com/blog/arrl-qst-product-review-m2-6m1k2-highpower-6-meter-amplifier/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2015 13:38:16 +0000</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.m2inc.com/blog/arrl-qst-product-review-m2-6m1k2-highpower-6-meter-amplifier/</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[<p>Republished with permission from November 2015 QST ARRL, </p><p>the national association for Amateur Radio® <a href="http://www.arrl.org/">www.arrl.org</a></p><p>Reviewed by Jeff Klein, K1TEO</p><p><a href="mailto:wa2teo@aol.com">wa2teo@aol.com</a></p><p>About 5 years ago, M2 Antenna&nbsp;Systems introduced a high power&nbsp;solid state amplifier for&nbsp;6&nbsp;meters (model 6M-1000) capable&nbsp;of a full kilowatt of output. It&nbsp;was lightweight and small, making&nbsp;it usable both at home and&nbsp;for portable operations. Later&nbsp;they came out with a higher&nbsp;power 2 meter solid state amplifier&nbsp;called the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/antennas/vhf-uhf-microwave-antennas/2-meter-144-mhz/2m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">2M-1K2</a>. I had a&nbsp;chance to review that amplifier&nbsp;and came away with a favorable&nbsp;opinion.4 Now there is a 6 meter&nbsp;version that is similar to the&nbsp;2 meter version in look and&nbsp;capabilities the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">6M-1K2</a>. It&nbsp;is capable of delivering up to&nbsp;1250 W of output, uses a 50 V&nbsp;dc supply that can be purchased&nbsp;integrated with the amplifier or&nbsp;added on separately, and like&nbsp;its predecessor is relatively lightweight&nbsp;and small.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Overview</span></strong></p><p>The M2&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">6M-1K2</a> is a compact amplifier,&nbsp;measuring just 6 × 7.125 × 13.4 inches&nbsp;(height, width, depth) when set up without&nbsp;the optional internal power supply. When&nbsp;configured this way, it weighs 13 pounds.&nbsp;When the optional 2400 W switching power&nbsp;supply is integrated, the package grows to&nbsp;9 inches tall and weighs 20.5 pounds. This&nbsp;makes it easy to use for DXpeditions or portable&nbsp;operation. We opted for the amplifier/power supply package for this review. In my&nbsp;station, it takes up about the same room as a&nbsp;desktop transceiver.</p><p>The amplifier uses a single Freescale&nbsp;LDMOSFET, an MRFE6VP61K25H,&nbsp;to generate power. The device can be&nbsp;driven to full output with about 5 W.&nbsp;Because most of us have transceivers&nbsp;that run significantly more power, M2&nbsp;has set the amplifier to be driven with&nbsp;50 – 100 W of input by using a built-in attenuator&nbsp;to achieve the correct drive level.&nbsp;</p><p>To run the optional internal power supply,&nbsp;a 240 V connection with a 15 A maximum&nbsp;is required. If you want to use a different&nbsp;supply, it will need to provide 48 – 50 V dc&nbsp;at about 40 A.&nbsp;</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Front Panel</span></strong></p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);"><br></span></strong></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/6m-1k2-image.png" style="width: 181px;"></p><p>The front of the amplifier has three switches&nbsp;and five lights that allow the operator&nbsp;to monitor and manage the status. The&nbsp;POWER switch controls the integrated&nbsp;power supply and turns on the 50 V dc. The&nbsp;amplifier can also be placed in or out of line&nbsp;using the READY switch.&nbsp;</p><p>The final switch on the front panel is to&nbsp;place the mode in or out of “JT mode.” JT&nbsp;is shorthand for WSJT, the software commonly&nbsp;used for weak signal digital communications.&nbsp;In JT mode, the amplifier&nbsp;runs closer to Class C, operating cooler and&nbsp;more efficiently for high duty cycle modes&nbsp;such as WSJT and FM that don’t require linear&nbsp;amplification. In JT mode, the rated output&nbsp;drops slightly as the drain current drops&nbsp;from the about 36 A to about 30 A.</p><p>The amplifier is protected from&nbsp;both high SWR and overheating.&nbsp;If the SWR is greater than 2.5:1 at&nbsp;the output, the amplifier will shut&nbsp;down and the VSWR/TEMP LED&nbsp;on the front panel will illuminate.&nbsp;If this condition occurs, you can&nbsp;recycle the amplifier quickly by&nbsp;toggling the READY switch to reset&nbsp;the amplifier.</p><p>If the amplifier overheats, the&nbsp;same VSWR/TEMP LED will&nbsp;come on to indicate the fault. The&nbsp;instructions say that this condition&nbsp;is “very rare” and if it does occur&nbsp;you should let the amplifier cool&nbsp;for 30 minutes before trying to&nbsp;operate. My operating included&nbsp;several high-intensity periods&nbsp;where the amplifier was used at&nbsp;maximum power with continuous&nbsp;SSB or CW transmissions for up&nbsp;to 2 hours. I was curious to see how hot the&nbsp;amplifier got. The amplifier has two fans&nbsp;on the lower front panel to cool the internal&nbsp;power supply and two on top above the&nbsp;heat sink on the RF section. Though a little&nbsp;noisy (more on this later), they worked effectively&nbsp;to keep the amplifier cool. Even&nbsp;after lengthy usage the heat sink, accessible&nbsp;from the back of the unit, was no more than&nbsp;warm. My experience seems to confirm that&nbsp;under normal operating an overheating situation&nbsp;should be unusual.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Rear Panel Connections</span></strong></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/6m-1k2-back.png" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; width: 170px; background-color: initial;"></p><p>The rear of the unit has two chassis mounted&nbsp;N female connectors for the RF&nbsp;input and the RF output. As I noted in my&nbsp;earlier review of the M2 2 meter amplifier,&nbsp;neither connector is marked, though they&nbsp;are clearly shown in the instructions.</p><p>Keying the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">6M-1K2</a> requires a path to&nbsp;ground through a phono jack on the rear&nbsp;of the unit. Keying the amplifier throws&nbsp;the built-in input and output relays. This&nbsp;is done with a built in 15 – 20 millisecond&nbsp;delay (per the instructions; ARRL Lab testing&nbsp;showed the delay to be 12 ms) to be sure&nbsp;the relays are closed before bias voltage is&nbsp;applied to the gates of the LDMOS device.&nbsp;This is a nice feature to help protect external&nbsp;preamps. In my case, I used my receive&nbsp;preamplifier without a sequencer and this&nbsp;delay did work to protect my preamplifier.&nbsp;I’ve damaged it in the past when I’ve used&nbsp;it without a sequencer with other amplifiers.</p><p>The other major connection on the back&nbsp;panel is for an external ac power cord when&nbsp;the amplifier includes the built-in power&nbsp;supply. Otherwise there are #10 AWG&nbsp;power leads to hook up an external 50 V&nbsp;supply.</p><p>There is also a terminal strip with a number&nbsp;of connections. Two of the screw terminals,&nbsp;connected at the factory, supply 28 V dc to&nbsp;the top cover fan. There is also a connection&nbsp;point for an external relay key return if&nbsp;the operator is keying external components.&nbsp;Another connection point supplies +13.6 V&nbsp;dc at 500 mA, convenient for hooking up&nbsp;external relays and preamps. In my case I&nbsp;didn’t have a need to use any of these connections&nbsp;but they are nice features to have&nbsp;available.</p><p>A fuse is also accessible from the rear&nbsp;panel. It protects the internal regulator and&nbsp;components.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Documentation</span></strong></p><p>The M2&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">6M-1K2</a> includes a 19-page printed&nbsp;manual that covers installation, a review of&nbsp;the features, and troubleshooting. It also&nbsp;includes a helpful overview of the theory of&nbsp;operation as well as block diagrams of the&nbsp;amplifier’s components and one showing a&nbsp;typical installation. To assist with troubleshooting&nbsp;there is a full schematic of the RF&nbsp;section and another of the control board.&nbsp;For those not familiar with WSJT, there is&nbsp;an addendum that provides information&nbsp;about the mode, use of the software, and&nbsp;references on how to obtain the software</p><p>online.</p><p>The instructions are clearly written and&nbsp;should provide the information needed to&nbsp;get the amplifier on the air and help the user&nbsp;understand all of the available features.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Setup</span></strong></p><p>Getting the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;">6M-1K2</a> on the air took just a&nbsp;few minutes. Since the test unit came with&nbsp;the built-in power supply, it was merely&nbsp;a matter of plugging in the ac cable that&nbsp;came with the amplifier to provide 240 V.&nbsp;As I already use an external amplifier on 6&nbsp;meters, the next step was to move the coax&nbsp;from the transceiver to the M2 amplifier and&nbsp;likewise move the amplifier output coax&nbsp;over as well. I key my current amplifier in&nbsp;the same way as the M2 amplifier (ground&nbsp;to transmit) so once the RCA jack was connected&nbsp;I was basically good to go. That was&nbsp;the extent of the setup simple and fast!</p><p>If you’re not currently using a high power&nbsp;amplifier on 6 meters, be sure that anything&nbsp;connected to the output has an adequate&nbsp;power rating at this frequency. Coaxial&nbsp;jumpers, feed lines, wattmeters, antennas,&nbsp;and so on all need to be able to handle&nbsp;1200 W or more.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;"><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);"><br></span></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/table-6.png" style="width: 495px;"></p><p><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;"><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Using the Amplifier</span></b></p><p>I drove the amplifier with my Kenwood&nbsp;TS-2000 transceiver which has a digital&nbsp;power indicator. I found that at about 80–85 W input from the transceiver I could&nbsp;achieve the maximum amplifier output as&nbsp;measured in my shack with a Bird wattmeter.&nbsp;I did not notice any significant difference&nbsp;on SSB or CW. The same was true&nbsp;when using WSJT with the amplifier in JT&nbsp;mode. Testing in the ARRL Lab (see Table&nbsp;6 and Figure 13) showed that 90 – 100 W is&nbsp;needed for full output. It also shows that the&nbsp;amplifier output is only modestly different&nbsp;when running with JT mode switched on.&nbsp;I have used several high-power solid state&nbsp;amplifiers and continue to enjoy the instant&nbsp;on (no warm-up period) aspect. This amplifier&nbsp;is no exception once the POWER and&nbsp;READY switches are thrown the amplifier is&nbsp;ready to use.</p><p>Once you turn the amplifier on, you will&nbsp;hear the lower fans come on immediately.&nbsp;They do so with some significant noise and&nbsp;then quickly drop to a lower level. However,&nbsp;during transmit, the fans speed up&nbsp;again to increase cooling, and the fans on&nbsp;the top of the amplifier come on as needed.&nbsp;In JT mode, the fan comes on as soon as the</p><p>amplifier is keyed.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Operation</span></strong></p><p>I had a chance to put the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;">6M-1K2</a> through&nbsp;its paces in several contests, including the&nbsp;Spring 6 Meter Sprint contest, the ARRL&nbsp;June VHF Contest, and the CQWW VHF&nbsp;Contest in July. I kept the amplifier at or&nbsp;near full power output in each event, and it&nbsp;performed flawlessly. Over-the-air reports&nbsp;were just what users would want inline&nbsp;or out, my signal quality was the same.&nbsp;With its significant cooling capabilities,&nbsp;the amplifier was never more than slightly&nbsp;warm, even after extended periods of WSJT&nbsp;and CW operating.&nbsp;</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/figure-13.png" style="width: 492px;"></p><p>If there was one minor concern, it was the&nbsp;amount of fan noise the amplifier generated.&nbsp;When transmitting, the fans tended to race&nbsp;and, though not loud, it was a bit distracting&nbsp;when I operated without headphones. I&nbsp;situated the amplifier on top of my existing&nbsp;6 meter tube amplifier, close to my operating&nbsp;position and at about head height. That&nbsp;was convenient to allow me to easily use the&nbsp;existing input and output cables as well as&nbsp;the PTT line. That had some impact on the&nbsp;noise generated. If I was using this amplifier&nbsp;on an ongoing basis I would probably locate&nbsp;it farther away because there are no meters&nbsp;to monitor. As long as I have a power output&nbsp;meter in line and viewable, I can confirm&nbsp;the amplifier is working. Of course, it probably&nbsp;shouldn’t be too far away if you want&nbsp;to switch to WSJT mode conveniently when&nbsp;desired. The amplifier switches to JT mode&nbsp;automatically after 5 seconds of continuous&nbsp;duty operation.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Final Thoughts</span></strong></p><p>Overall, I would give the M2&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;">6M-1K2</a> high&nbsp;marks for its performance. It delivered the&nbsp;power level as expected. Very importantly,&nbsp;it had a clean signal, something critical&nbsp;when operating with nearby stations at this&nbsp;power level. It was about as easy a setup as&nbsp;you would hope to have with a high-power&nbsp;amplifier. On top of that, it would have been&nbsp;very easy to take this setup portable. As&nbsp;with the 2 meter version, I came away with&nbsp;a highly favorable impression of this amplifier&nbsp;and think it would make a valuable&nbsp;addition for any serious 6 meter operator.</p><p>Manufacturer:&nbsp;</p><p>M2 Antenna Systems</p><p>4402&nbsp;N Selland Ave</p><p>Fresno, CA 93722</p><p>tel 559-432-8873&nbsp;</p><p><a href="http://www.m2inc.com." style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;">www.m2inc.com.</a></p><p>Click &lt;<a href="/content/PDF MANUALS/M2 AMPS/Nov2015 QST Review 6M-1K2.pdf" target="_blank">HERE</a>&gt; for PDF version of this article</p><p>Republished with permission from November 2015 QST ARRL,&nbsp;</p><p>the national association for Amateur Radio®&nbsp;<a href="http://www.arrl.org" target="_blank">www.arrl.org</a></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Republished with permission from November 2015 QST ARRL, </p><p>the national association for Amateur Radio® <a href="http://www.arrl.org/">www.arrl.org</a></p><p>Reviewed by Jeff Klein, K1TEO</p><p><a href="mailto:wa2teo@aol.com">wa2teo@aol.com</a></p><p>About 5 years ago, M2 Antenna&nbsp;Systems introduced a high power&nbsp;solid state amplifier for&nbsp;6&nbsp;meters (model 6M-1000) capable&nbsp;of a full kilowatt of output. It&nbsp;was lightweight and small, making&nbsp;it usable both at home and&nbsp;for portable operations. Later&nbsp;they came out with a higher&nbsp;power 2 meter solid state amplifier&nbsp;called the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/antennas/vhf-uhf-microwave-antennas/2-meter-144-mhz/2m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">2M-1K2</a>. I had a&nbsp;chance to review that amplifier&nbsp;and came away with a favorable&nbsp;opinion.4 Now there is a 6 meter&nbsp;version that is similar to the&nbsp;2 meter version in look and&nbsp;capabilities the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">6M-1K2</a>. It&nbsp;is capable of delivering up to&nbsp;1250 W of output, uses a 50 V&nbsp;dc supply that can be purchased&nbsp;integrated with the amplifier or&nbsp;added on separately, and like&nbsp;its predecessor is relatively lightweight&nbsp;and small.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Overview</span></strong></p><p>The M2&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">6M-1K2</a> is a compact amplifier,&nbsp;measuring just 6 × 7.125 × 13.4 inches&nbsp;(height, width, depth) when set up without&nbsp;the optional internal power supply. When&nbsp;configured this way, it weighs 13 pounds.&nbsp;When the optional 2400 W switching power&nbsp;supply is integrated, the package grows to&nbsp;9 inches tall and weighs 20.5 pounds. This&nbsp;makes it easy to use for DXpeditions or portable&nbsp;operation. We opted for the amplifier/power supply package for this review. In my&nbsp;station, it takes up about the same room as a&nbsp;desktop transceiver.</p><p>The amplifier uses a single Freescale&nbsp;LDMOSFET, an MRFE6VP61K25H,&nbsp;to generate power. The device can be&nbsp;driven to full output with about 5 W.&nbsp;Because most of us have transceivers&nbsp;that run significantly more power, M2&nbsp;has set the amplifier to be driven with&nbsp;50 – 100 W of input by using a built-in attenuator&nbsp;to achieve the correct drive level.&nbsp;</p><p>To run the optional internal power supply,&nbsp;a 240 V connection with a 15 A maximum&nbsp;is required. If you want to use a different&nbsp;supply, it will need to provide 48 – 50 V dc&nbsp;at about 40 A.&nbsp;</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Front Panel</span></strong></p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);"><br></span></strong></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/6m-1k2-image.png" style="width: 181px;"></p><p>The front of the amplifier has three switches&nbsp;and five lights that allow the operator&nbsp;to monitor and manage the status. The&nbsp;POWER switch controls the integrated&nbsp;power supply and turns on the 50 V dc. The&nbsp;amplifier can also be placed in or out of line&nbsp;using the READY switch.&nbsp;</p><p>The final switch on the front panel is to&nbsp;place the mode in or out of “JT mode.” JT&nbsp;is shorthand for WSJT, the software commonly&nbsp;used for weak signal digital communications.&nbsp;In JT mode, the amplifier&nbsp;runs closer to Class C, operating cooler and&nbsp;more efficiently for high duty cycle modes&nbsp;such as WSJT and FM that don’t require linear&nbsp;amplification. In JT mode, the rated output&nbsp;drops slightly as the drain current drops&nbsp;from the about 36 A to about 30 A.</p><p>The amplifier is protected from&nbsp;both high SWR and overheating.&nbsp;If the SWR is greater than 2.5:1 at&nbsp;the output, the amplifier will shut&nbsp;down and the VSWR/TEMP LED&nbsp;on the front panel will illuminate.&nbsp;If this condition occurs, you can&nbsp;recycle the amplifier quickly by&nbsp;toggling the READY switch to reset&nbsp;the amplifier.</p><p>If the amplifier overheats, the&nbsp;same VSWR/TEMP LED will&nbsp;come on to indicate the fault. The&nbsp;instructions say that this condition&nbsp;is “very rare” and if it does occur&nbsp;you should let the amplifier cool&nbsp;for 30 minutes before trying to&nbsp;operate. My operating included&nbsp;several high-intensity periods&nbsp;where the amplifier was used at&nbsp;maximum power with continuous&nbsp;SSB or CW transmissions for up&nbsp;to 2 hours. I was curious to see how hot the&nbsp;amplifier got. The amplifier has two fans&nbsp;on the lower front panel to cool the internal&nbsp;power supply and two on top above the&nbsp;heat sink on the RF section. Though a little&nbsp;noisy (more on this later), they worked effectively&nbsp;to keep the amplifier cool. Even&nbsp;after lengthy usage the heat sink, accessible&nbsp;from the back of the unit, was no more than&nbsp;warm. My experience seems to confirm that&nbsp;under normal operating an overheating situation&nbsp;should be unusual.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Rear Panel Connections</span></strong></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/6m-1k2-back.png" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; width: 170px; background-color: initial;"></p><p>The rear of the unit has two chassis mounted&nbsp;N female connectors for the RF&nbsp;input and the RF output. As I noted in my&nbsp;earlier review of the M2 2 meter amplifier,&nbsp;neither connector is marked, though they&nbsp;are clearly shown in the instructions.</p><p>Keying the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">6M-1K2</a> requires a path to&nbsp;ground through a phono jack on the rear&nbsp;of the unit. Keying the amplifier throws&nbsp;the built-in input and output relays. This&nbsp;is done with a built in 15 – 20 millisecond&nbsp;delay (per the instructions; ARRL Lab testing&nbsp;showed the delay to be 12 ms) to be sure&nbsp;the relays are closed before bias voltage is&nbsp;applied to the gates of the LDMOS device.&nbsp;This is a nice feature to help protect external&nbsp;preamps. In my case, I used my receive&nbsp;preamplifier without a sequencer and this&nbsp;delay did work to protect my preamplifier.&nbsp;I’ve damaged it in the past when I’ve used&nbsp;it without a sequencer with other amplifiers.</p><p>The other major connection on the back&nbsp;panel is for an external ac power cord when&nbsp;the amplifier includes the built-in power&nbsp;supply. Otherwise there are #10 AWG&nbsp;power leads to hook up an external 50 V&nbsp;supply.</p><p>There is also a terminal strip with a number&nbsp;of connections. Two of the screw terminals,&nbsp;connected at the factory, supply 28 V dc to&nbsp;the top cover fan. There is also a connection&nbsp;point for an external relay key return if&nbsp;the operator is keying external components.&nbsp;Another connection point supplies +13.6 V&nbsp;dc at 500 mA, convenient for hooking up&nbsp;external relays and preamps. In my case I&nbsp;didn’t have a need to use any of these connections&nbsp;but they are nice features to have&nbsp;available.</p><p>A fuse is also accessible from the rear&nbsp;panel. It protects the internal regulator and&nbsp;components.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Documentation</span></strong></p><p>The M2&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" target="_blank">6M-1K2</a> includes a 19-page printed&nbsp;manual that covers installation, a review of&nbsp;the features, and troubleshooting. It also&nbsp;includes a helpful overview of the theory of&nbsp;operation as well as block diagrams of the&nbsp;amplifier’s components and one showing a&nbsp;typical installation. To assist with troubleshooting&nbsp;there is a full schematic of the RF&nbsp;section and another of the control board.&nbsp;For those not familiar with WSJT, there is&nbsp;an addendum that provides information&nbsp;about the mode, use of the software, and&nbsp;references on how to obtain the software</p><p>online.</p><p>The instructions are clearly written and&nbsp;should provide the information needed to&nbsp;get the amplifier on the air and help the user&nbsp;understand all of the available features.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Setup</span></strong></p><p>Getting the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;">6M-1K2</a> on the air took just a&nbsp;few minutes. Since the test unit came with&nbsp;the built-in power supply, it was merely&nbsp;a matter of plugging in the ac cable that&nbsp;came with the amplifier to provide 240 V.&nbsp;As I already use an external amplifier on 6&nbsp;meters, the next step was to move the coax&nbsp;from the transceiver to the M2 amplifier and&nbsp;likewise move the amplifier output coax&nbsp;over as well. I key my current amplifier in&nbsp;the same way as the M2 amplifier (ground&nbsp;to transmit) so once the RCA jack was connected&nbsp;I was basically good to go. That was&nbsp;the extent of the setup simple and fast!</p><p>If you’re not currently using a high power&nbsp;amplifier on 6 meters, be sure that anything&nbsp;connected to the output has an adequate&nbsp;power rating at this frequency. Coaxial&nbsp;jumpers, feed lines, wattmeters, antennas,&nbsp;and so on all need to be able to handle&nbsp;1200 W or more.</p><p style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;"><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);"><br></span></b></p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/table-6.png" style="width: 495px;"></p><p><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;"><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Using the Amplifier</span></b></p><p>I drove the amplifier with my Kenwood&nbsp;TS-2000 transceiver which has a digital&nbsp;power indicator. I found that at about 80–85 W input from the transceiver I could&nbsp;achieve the maximum amplifier output as&nbsp;measured in my shack with a Bird wattmeter.&nbsp;I did not notice any significant difference&nbsp;on SSB or CW. The same was true&nbsp;when using WSJT with the amplifier in JT&nbsp;mode. Testing in the ARRL Lab (see Table&nbsp;6 and Figure 13) showed that 90 – 100 W is&nbsp;needed for full output. It also shows that the&nbsp;amplifier output is only modestly different&nbsp;when running with JT mode switched on.&nbsp;I have used several high-power solid state&nbsp;amplifiers and continue to enjoy the instant&nbsp;on (no warm-up period) aspect. This amplifier&nbsp;is no exception once the POWER and&nbsp;READY switches are thrown the amplifier is&nbsp;ready to use.</p><p>Once you turn the amplifier on, you will&nbsp;hear the lower fans come on immediately.&nbsp;They do so with some significant noise and&nbsp;then quickly drop to a lower level. However,&nbsp;during transmit, the fans speed up&nbsp;again to increase cooling, and the fans on&nbsp;the top of the amplifier come on as needed.&nbsp;In JT mode, the fan comes on as soon as the</p><p>amplifier is keyed.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Operation</span></strong></p><p>I had a chance to put the&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;">6M-1K2</a> through&nbsp;its paces in several contests, including the&nbsp;Spring 6 Meter Sprint contest, the ARRL&nbsp;June VHF Contest, and the CQWW VHF&nbsp;Contest in July. I kept the amplifier at or&nbsp;near full power output in each event, and it&nbsp;performed flawlessly. Over-the-air reports&nbsp;were just what users would want inline&nbsp;or out, my signal quality was the same.&nbsp;With its significant cooling capabilities,&nbsp;the amplifier was never more than slightly&nbsp;warm, even after extended periods of WSJT&nbsp;and CW operating.&nbsp;</p><p style="text-align: center;"><img src="/product_images/uploaded_images/figure-13.png" style="width: 492px;"></p><p>If there was one minor concern, it was the&nbsp;amount of fan noise the amplifier generated.&nbsp;When transmitting, the fans tended to race&nbsp;and, though not loud, it was a bit distracting&nbsp;when I operated without headphones. I&nbsp;situated the amplifier on top of my existing&nbsp;6 meter tube amplifier, close to my operating&nbsp;position and at about head height. That&nbsp;was convenient to allow me to easily use the&nbsp;existing input and output cables as well as&nbsp;the PTT line. That had some impact on the&nbsp;noise generated. If I was using this amplifier&nbsp;on an ongoing basis I would probably locate&nbsp;it farther away because there are no meters&nbsp;to monitor. As long as I have a power output&nbsp;meter in line and viewable, I can confirm&nbsp;the amplifier is working. Of course, it probably&nbsp;shouldn’t be too far away if you want&nbsp;to switch to WSJT mode conveniently when&nbsp;desired. The amplifier switches to JT mode&nbsp;automatically after 5 seconds of continuous&nbsp;duty operation.</p><p><strong><span style="color: rgb(149, 55, 52);">Final Thoughts</span></strong></p><p>Overall, I would give the M2&nbsp;<a href="http://www.m2inc.com/amateur/6m-1k2-1-2-kw-solid-state-amplifier/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;">6M-1K2</a> high&nbsp;marks for its performance. It delivered the&nbsp;power level as expected. Very importantly,&nbsp;it had a clean signal, something critical&nbsp;when operating with nearby stations at this&nbsp;power level. It was about as easy a setup as&nbsp;you would hope to have with a high-power&nbsp;amplifier. On top of that, it would have been&nbsp;very easy to take this setup portable. As&nbsp;with the 2 meter version, I came away with&nbsp;a highly favorable impression of this amplifier&nbsp;and think it would make a valuable&nbsp;addition for any serious 6 meter operator.</p><p>Manufacturer:&nbsp;</p><p>M2 Antenna Systems</p><p>4402&nbsp;N Selland Ave</p><p>Fresno, CA 93722</p><p>tel 559-432-8873&nbsp;</p><p><a href="http://www.m2inc.com." style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, Verdana, Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 15px; background-color: initial;">www.m2inc.com.</a></p><p>Click &lt;<a href="/content/PDF MANUALS/M2 AMPS/Nov2015 QST Review 6M-1K2.pdf" target="_blank">HERE</a>&gt; for PDF version of this article</p><p>Republished with permission from November 2015 QST ARRL,&nbsp;</p><p>the national association for Amateur Radio®&nbsp;<a href="http://www.arrl.org" target="_blank">www.arrl.org</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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